Today marks the first of a two part tutorial for After Effects. This is the first AE tutorial I’ve written and hopefully it won’t be the last. For the first part, we’re going to create a blue, marble orb. Part II will deal with making it all glass looking.

This could be used as an element in an animation, or possibly as David Bowie’s glass balls from the Labyrinth.
Being my first tutorial, I will elaborate on some beginner After Effects controls. For more basic training, though, I highly recommend Andrew Kramer’s series on Video Copilot. Or, if you’re more for the paid-type training, check out Dean Valez’ site, the Motion Graphics Lab. They both also have some fun free stuff on their sites sometimes, so be sure to poke around.
Also, I am working on After Effects CS3. Most of the controls should be the same or similar in other versions. Let me know if there’s a difference!
Moving on!
First thing, create a new Composition. Either press Cmd+N (Ctrl+N) or navigate to “Composition > New Composition…” This will bring up the following dialog box:

Now, there’s a lot of helpful info in here, but all we really care about to start with is the Name, Preset, and the Duration. Name this comp “Orb”, set the Preset to “NTSC D1″ and the Duration to “1000″. This will set the duration to ten seconds. After Effects allows you to simply enter the digits of the timecode and fills in the colons for you. So ten seconds and zero frames becomes “1000″, and then move on!
A Word About Compositions:
A composition, in After Effects, is a lot like a regular .PSD in Photoshop. It is a blank canvas, you can have multiple layers, and you can apply effects to individual or multiple layers, or apply transfer modes. One major difference is that you don’t have brush tools to paint or draw directly on a layer. If this panics you, don’t worry. You can make your layers in Photoshop, and import them into After Effects and they retain most or all of their original characteristics, depending on which version you use. CS3 includes even the ability to keep (and keyframe) your layer styles from Photoshop.
One major advantage, however, is that you can nest compositions. This means you can create an entire composition in AE, and then use it as a single layer in a bigger composition. It’s almost like grouping your layers in Photoshop, except that nested comps are treated as layers unto themselves, with the ability to add effects and so forth. But more on that later.
Alright, so we’ve got this blank comp, but no layers? Well, where do we start?
With a solid. Solids are AE objects that have only the most basic properties. Size, position, rotation, opacity. Oh, and a single color. But they also act as a starting point for effects. Which you’ll see here.
To create a new solid, press Cmd+Y (Ctrl+Y), or go to “Layer > New > Solid…”

In this dialog, you can choose (and later modify) the settings of a solid. For now, simply click “Make Comp Size” if it’s not already. And while it doesn’t really matter which color you choose at this point for the solid, feel free to play around with the color picker. I’ll give you a hint though, it’s identical to the one in Photoshop. Also, name this solid “Marble Texture”. When you’re done, click OK.
Now, you’re working area should look TONS different. Now, instead of a black box in the center, you have a black box with resizing handles on the edges and corners. Unless you changed your color, in which case, you may have a blue or even green box. Well, aren’t you mister fancy pants! Lah-dee-freaking-dah!
*Ahem*. Ok, moving on.
You now have your first layer in your comp. In the timeline view, you can set various settings for this layer.

Your four primary properties you can animate are position, scale, rotation, and opacity. With a layer selected, you can bring up any of these properties with the “P”, “S”, “R”, and “T” keys, respectively. Yes, opacity is brought up with the letter T, no one knows why. If you’d like to bring up more than one of them, simply press the corresponding letter for the first property, and then hold down Shift and press the letters for all subsequent properties. So, if you want to see both Position and Rotation, you would press P, and then Shift+R (or R and then Shift-P).
Feel free to experiment with these properties you have here. But for now, I’m going to move on, as we have a lot to cover. Don’t worry, we’ll talk more about animating properties in a bit.
Now, we’re going to start the orb texture with one of my favorite effects, Fractal Noise.
You can add an effect in one of two ways. You begin by selecting the layer, and then either navigate through the menus to find the effect (Effect > Noise & Grain > Fractal Noise) or, if you have CS3 or later, you can use the effect search box in the Effects and Presets pane, and then double click the effect.

Personally, I never use the effects menu unless I’m browsing. This search box is just too simple and quick.
So, with the Marble Texture layer selected, add the Fractal Noise filter.

Seasoned Photoshop users will probably find this filter pretty familiar. It’s reminiscient of the Clouds filter that is used to generate a cloud pattern (duh), that can be used for a variety of effects in Photoshop. Well, AE takes this a bit further.
I highly recommend playing around with this effect, as it has a ton of fun options. When you’re done, though, here’s the settings we’ll need (and what some of them do):

Fractal Type: This setting gives you the greatest degree of variation. Much like blending modes in Photoshop, there’s no good non-technical way of explaining the difference between them. Just change between them, see what they all do, and see which ones work best for this project. At the end, set this one to Dynamic. Noise Type is also good for making variations of a Fractal Type. Set this one to Soft Linear.
Complexity: This setting allows you to, as the name suggests, add complexity to your fractal. We don’t need much for this one, however, if you want something more vein-y or webbish, you could turn up the complexity for a different effect.
Evolution: Evolution allows for the motion of a fractal. If you modify the evolution values, you will see the fractal change shape, morph. While we won’t be using evolution settings for this project, we actually could, and perhaps get an interesting effect. However, in most of the motion backgrounds I’ve done, I use a keyframed Evolution setting to achieve movement. More on keyframing later.
Those are some of the most powerful options in this effect, but play around with everything. The best thing of all is that every setting is animate-able, including brightness and contrast.
Alright, so now we’ve got this kind of marble-ish pattern, but what kind of marble is black and white? This has got to change. One way to do it would be with a Hue and Saturation effect, but we’re gonna use a different filter that affords us a little more control.
Effect > Color Correction > Tritone…

With the Tritone filter, you can colorize the highlights, midtones, and shadows individually. We’re going to give this orb a blue-ish tone to it. Set the colors to the following hex codes:
Highlights : 00148B
Midtones : 9ABBFF
Shadows : 000325
Leave Blend with Origin at 0% for now.

So, you should have something like this.
Now, for that nesting of comps thing we talked about.
What we have right now is a single Solid layer (Marble Texture) inside a comp called Orb. From here select the Marble Texture layer. Then choose Layer > Pre-Compose. Or press Cmd+Shift+C (Ctrl+Shift+C).

You should now see the above dialog box. Make sure the “Move all attributes into new composition” button is selected. Name this comp “Marble” and click OK.
You should now have a single comp called “Marble” inside the “Orb” comp. If you want to go back and edit the Marble settings, simply Option+Click (Alt+Click) the Marble comp in the timeline panel, or double-click it in the Project Panel, and it will open it up.
This was probably unnecessary for this project, but if you had a more complex object, say a map layer, and then a cloud layer on top, this would come in handy. Remember to keep things organized.
Alright, here’s where things start getting really fun.
If it isn’t already, select the Marble layer (comp) in the Orb comp. Then, add the filter CC Sphere (Effect > Perspective > CC Sphere)

As you can see, this takes the marble texture and wraps it around an imaginary sphere, to create the orb effect.
Those of you with an overabundant attention to detail may ask, “But what about the edges? It’s not a repeating pattern, so there should be a seam somewhere.” Well, you’re right. And on the “back” of this sphere, you will find it. Additionally, you’ll see a stretching effect towards the top and bottom.
But we can still get some spin out of this. To do that, we gotta do a bit of keyframing. Begin by going to your Effect Controls panel. You can find it by pressing F3.

These are the settings for your effects, in this case, CC Sphere. We’ll get to the Lighting and Shading sections in part two, but for now, play around with the X, Y, and Z rotation settings. You may find the distortions we were talking about earlier. When you’re done, put all three rotation settings back to 0.
Make sure that your playhead is on the first frame (called home) of your composition. Then click the stopwatch icon next to the Rotation Y setting. Then set the degrees rotation to +95.
Note: There are two numbers for rotation keyframes. Number of rotations, and degrees of rotation, in that order. The first will rotate the object a full 360 degree turns the specified number of times. This doesn’t tend to matter in still images, but when animating, can make a huge difference. An object rotating 0 rotations and 90 degrees is a huge difference from rotating 3 rotations and 90 degrees. Be sure you put the correct number in the correct setting.
Clicking the stopwatch sets your first keyframe. From then on, any changes you make down the timeline will set keyframes for that setting automatically. (To see all keyframes for a layer, select the layer and press U.)
Move your playhead to the end of your timeline (timecode in the top left corner of your timeline panel should read “0;00;09;29″), and set your Y rotation setting to -100 degrees. (That is negative one hundred.)

You can RAM preview your animation by pressing the zero key (0) on your number pad. Specifically the number pad zero, not the regular one.
So, this is already looking pretty good. And if you were in a tight spot and needed a rotating orb in a hurry (as we all do at some point in the day), and quality wasn’t a huge issue, this would do fine.
There’s still more we can do, though. However, I’m gonna save that for Part II of this tutorial, as this is getting quite long, and I’d like to post it already.
Yes, I am impatient. What can I say?
Hang on to a copy of that project file, though, and play around with it some. See you in a little while with part II. And if I don’t see you before then, wish us luck at the NFC!